По наблюдениям заинтересованных специалистов с крымской стороны в нынешнем сезоне в Крыму побывало на 35% россиян больше, чем в прошлом. Кажется, что процент здорово увеличивают самостоятельные российские автопутешественники. Мы с “Саквояжем” уже бывали на крымских дорогах, но начинали Путешествие со страны Евпатории. Сегодня с Владимиром и Ангелиной Шахановыми попадем в Крым совсем с другой стороны...
Кругосветка на собственных четырех колесах – один из лучших способов путешествий. Во-первых, вы свободны и не зависите от расписания транспорта. Во-вторых, все дороги и направления до самого берега дальнего моря ваши. В-третьих, что вообще еще надо для путешествия? В нашем случае только далекую, но доступную заманчивую цели в виде Черного моря.
Мы приближаемся к берегам Крыма, но попадем мы туда вовсе не только по суше. И этот путь через паром возможно даже лучше сухопутного хотя бы по той причине, что время, потраченное на долгое, скучное и даже мучительное ожидание очереди таможенного досмотра можно провести на ветерке переправы. Правда тоже не быстрое. Словом вариант.
Ну а наш паром приближается к Керчи. И уже с воды можно начать вспоминать и проверять, соответствуют ли берега хотя бы нашим литературным впечатлениям. “С полуострова Тамани, - вспоминал когда-то Пушкин - , древнего Тмутараканского княжества открылись мне берега Крыма. Морем приехали мы в Керчь. Здесь увижу я развалины Митридатова гроба. Здесь увижу я следы понтикапи – думал я”.
Мы еще вспомним пушкинские строки. А пока можно заметить, что до сих пор горожане Керчи только предполагают, но доподлинно не знают, где именно останавливался Пушкин в их городе той самой, одной единственной ночью, когда был здесь.
Мы причалили. Вот ведь как можно соскучиться по твердой суше. В этом городе нет много того, чем гордятся и привлекают внимание туристов другие крымские города. Здесь нет пышной набережной, музыкальных фонтанов, дворцов или пещер. Зато Керчь напоминает Севастополь и его бухты. Здесь есть грандиозный вид на город и настоящая старая крепость. Народ сюда заезжает спонтанно, поэтому можно попасть и в абсолютно ненаселенное пространство и значит почувствовать дыхание истории.
Так продолжим пушкинские впечатления. “Остановились мы, - пишет он, - на золотом холме. Ряды камней, ров, почти сровнявшийся с землей – вот все, что осталось от города Понтикопея. Нет сомнений, что много драгоценного скрывается под землею, насыпанной веками. Какой-то француз прислан из Петербурга для разысканий, но ему недостает ни денег, ни сведений, как у нас обыкновенно водится. На ближней горе увидел я груду камней, утесов, в кругу высеченных, заметил несколько ступеней – дела рук человеческих. Кровля это или основание башни, не знаю.”
А вот чуть позже, в XIX же веке процесс проходил по-варварски. Курганы раскапывали все, кому не лень и даже пытались взорвать камни. Самые большие, которыми был обложен с внешней стороны царский курган, разбирали на строительство казарм, а кто-то и на забор для своего сада. Как будто бы следы этих действий и сейчас можно увидеть на некоторых улицах.
Как и многие города на берегу, этот связан древним именем Пантикапей с рыбой. Если посмотреть на иранские корни, пантикапа – рыбный путь. Т.е. имелся ввиду полный добычи керченский пролив, на берегу которого и был основан город. Пантикопей быстро превратился в крупный город, опередил другие греческие поселения в этом районе. Уже в VI веке д.н.э. здесь чеканили свою серебряную монету.
Вокруг Понтикапея объединялись греческие города, и он быстро стал столицей Баспорского государства и главным торговым, ремесленным и культурным центром. Город располагался на склонах у подножия скалистой горы – современная гора Митридат. На вершине был, как и положено, Акрополь с храмами и общественными зданиями. Город имел хорошую гавань.
Археологи раскопали здесь рыбозасолочные цистерны, винодельни, гончарные печи, комплексы хозяйственных ям для хранения зерна. Однако со временем Понтикопей и весь Босфор стали базой для пиратских набегов германских, дакийских и прочих племен на побережье Черного и Средиземного морей. В конце концов в IV веке Понтикопей разрушили гунны. А вот еще впечатления пушкинского времени и его же авторства.
“В Керчи считается около 4-х тысяч жителей обоего пола. Греческий язык везде слышен. Я говорил со многими гречанками. Они весьма приветливы и хороши собою. По древнему обычаю сидят, поджавши ноги, перед своими домиками на ковриками. В будние дни в трудах, праздник проводят в разговорах. Какая разница, быть греком под законами Турции, России ли”. Теперь в городе греков, т.е. их потомков немного.
Еще один памятник вполне узнаваемой эпохи. Керченско-Эльтигенская операция, возможно, вошла не во все учебники истории. Но это была одна из самых крупных десантных операций Великой Отечественной. Самые отличившиеся дивизии, части и корабли были преобразованы в гвардейские, а 129 воинов были удостоены звания “Герой Советского Союза”.
Если вы на Крымском берегу, то грех не побывать конкретно в Старом Крыму. Именно здесь сохранилась самая ранняя в этих местах мечеть хана Узбека. Этой табличке можно верить хотя бы потому, что реставрации не было давно. Реставрации мечети еще ждать и ждать. Хан Узбек вступил на золотоордынский престол в 1312 году и велел построить здесь мечеть и митриссе. А один турецкий путешественник был под впечатлением от этой постройки в 1512 году, что доподлинно известно.
Что еще точно? Именно здесь, на черноморских берегах, столетиями оседали люди разной веры и разных национальностей. Вот этот монастырь армянской Апостольской Церкви, Сурб Хач, основан в середине XIV века. Именно тогда наблюдалась массовая армянская миграция в Крым. Эта обитель традиционно была крупным духовным центром крымских армян. До революции монастырь даже владел землей в горных и степных частях полуострова. У него было 4 тысячи десятин.
Наша следующая встреча с великим и прекрасным Севастополем. Вот по этому городу точно есть смысл поездить, погулять и, конечно, познакомиться с его бухтами и кораблями. Здесь все в полоску. Каждый метр набережной, т.е. приморского бульвара, бережет свои воспоминания. И они станут вашими, как только вы проведете здесь хоть час. Но лучше побольше, чтобы рассмотреть мостик влюбленных, наслушаться детских голосов, плеска волн.
Недавно бульвар был обновлен и благоустроен. И, похоже, гости и хозяева оценили его новый облик. Здесь, как и столетие назад, назначают свидания, начинают экскурсии и самостоятельное знакомство с городов и просто гуляют, купаются, дышат и пытаются насмотреться, запомнить этот простой и вместе с тем значительный, знаковый для Черного моря пейзаж.
Почти нереально, но с каждой минутой все ярче представляешь. Вот именно здесь, в этой бухте, сконцентрирована память о героических днях и победах российского флота. Вот он, такой узнаваемый и такой оказывается небольшой памятник затонувшим кораблям.
В сентябре 1854 года, опасаясь, что вражеский флот англо-франко-турецкой армии пойдет в атаку с моря, русское командование решило затопить на входном фарватере устаревшие парусные суда. Огонь береговых батарей, затопленные корабли делали Северную бухту недоступной для вражеского флота. Здесь, в этой бухте, кажется, что не только моряки могут оценить боль той жертвы. Якоря с тех кораблей здесь же, на набережной.
Если повезет, в бухте можно увидеть современные военные корабли. Этот контраст особенно интересен. Тихие прогулки на катерах и эти вполне вооруженные, готовые к своей работе боевые машины. Здесь не просто вас прокатят мимо всех пришвартованных судов, но даже расскажут некоторые подробности.
Ну и непременно с Приморского бульвара надо переместиться на Матросский, по пути не пройти мимо Графской пристани, которая тоже оказывается удивительно миниатюрной. Или это общий закон? То, что известно с детства, о чем слышно не раз, кажется при знакомстве не таким уж масштабным. Зато Нахимов, великий Нахимов во весь шестиметровый рост в шинели с эполетами, с Георгиевским крестом и подзорной трубой с 1898 года смотрит отсюда на город, за который он отдал жизнь. Точнее это уже новый памятник, сооруженный на месте несохранившегося уже после Великой Отечественной.
Сюда приходят будущие профессионалы не просто поклониться памяти адмирала, поучиться, подумать, что-то сказать самому себе, чтобы запомнить на всю жизнь. На постаменте боевые эпизоды жизни адмирала – Синодский бой, беседа с матросами, Нахимов на четвертом бастионе и бронзовый лист с текстом одного из приказов. “В случае встречи с неприятелем, превышающим нас в силах, я атакую его, будучи совершенно уверен, что каждый из нас сделает свое дело”.
Скульптор Томский за этот памятник получил золотую медаль Академии художеств СССР. Не зря. Видите, и теперь жива энергия любви этого патриота к родной земле и морю. Вот здесь, в Севастополе, пока остановимся, чтобы встретиться в Крыму и продолжить путешествие по его берегам. В следующий раз нас ждут подводные погружения и другие радости мыса Тарханкут.
А теперь понемногу о разном. В этой стране Хэллоуин празднуют не день, не два, а целый месяц. Весь октябрь по улицам парижского Диснейленда будут разгуливать дамы и господа с тыквенными головами, а также Джек Скементон и Салли, герои мультфильма “Кошмар перед Рождеством”. Специально на Хеллоуин в гости к Микки и мини приедет колдун Вуду, доктор Фасилье, злодей из мультика “Принцесса и лягушка”. Обитатели парка научат детей и их родителей варить тыквенный суп, сыграют с ними в традиционную хеллоуинскую пиньяту. Ночью организаторы фестиваля обещают световое шоу, театр теней и, конечно же, призраков.
Недавно одновременно 200 дайверов спустились в воду Красного моря. Правда интересовали их не экзотические рыбы и кораллы, а мусор. Министерство туризма Египта вместе с союзом дайверов организовали экологическую акцию. Цель – спасти морских жителей от отходов цивилизации. Подводные рейды теперь станут регулярными. Кроме того, введена система жестких штрафов за мусор на пляже, незаконный лов рыбы и слив канализационных отходов. В планах администрации Шармаль шейха стать через 10 лет самым зеленым и экологически чистым курортным городом Египта.
Зачем кому-то знать, сколько сторон у обычного боба? Чтобы стать участником японского фестиваля Цукаримон Мацури. Каждый год народные умельцы привозят на праздник скульптуры из овощей и фруктов. Как правило, это герои мультиков и местных легенд. Японцы работают над статуями не в одиночку, а в командах. Маленьким детям доверяют приклеивать к овощным композициям мелкие детали и бобы. Взрослые уверены: профессионально приклеить боб можно только после 3-х лет практики. В этом году в фестивале участвовали 33 скульптуры.
Для многих немцев уйти в монастырь – все равно, что уйти в отпуск. 300 монастырей Германии предлагают городским жителям отдохнуть за их стенами от мирской суеты. Священнослужители всегда рады гостям, с отъездом никогда не торопят. Отдыхайте в монастыре сколько хотите. В программу монастырского тура входят дискуссии с монахами, молитвы и помощь в ежедневных делах монастыря.
Город светодиодных огней. Так туристы называют район i-City города Шах Алам в Малайзии. На его сияние слетаются тысячи туристов в год. Неудивительно. Там есть, на что посмотреть. Улицы, деревья, статуи – все украшено светодиодными фонариками и играет всеми цветами радуги 24 часа в сутки. Каждый месяц световое оформление i-City меняется. Кстати, затраты на такую масштабную иллюминацию невысоки. Электроэнергии требуется столько же, сколько и четырем магазинам.
Замки, где время остановилось, дышат суровым, загадочным прошлым. Зеленые холмы и вереск, отличные гольфовые поля и виски. Шотландия. Не всякую страну так легко узнать по нескольким знакам. И, тем не менее, британские маркетологи пару лет назад решили освежить интерес туристов именно к шотландским замкам и взялись рекламировать привидения, которые водятся якобы в четырнадцати пятизвездочных отелях. Т.е. в тех отелях, которые располагаются в бывших рыцарских замках.
Реакция оказалась обратной. Отели опустели. Особенно напугались японские туристы. Менеджеры отелей до сих пор успокаивают гостей, уверяя, что духи ведут себя мирно и кровавая история замков в далеком прошлом. Неудача рекламного хода, конечно, постигла Шотландию только оттого, что в тур потоках в эту страну не слишком ярко представлены россияне. Вот наших то точно привидениями не испугаешь.
Пока же, несмотря на прямые рейсы Москва-Эдинбург, всего то около 30 тысяч россиян ежегодно отправляются на территорию зеленых холмов. Причем шотландским организаторам обидно, что туристов из России привлекают не столько гольфовые поля, сколько виски и туры. 45 млн. других туристов каждый год отправляются в галерею Келвингроуз в Глазго, в Эдинбургский замок, центр морских птиц в деревне Нордберег и национальный музей Шотландии.
Автобус в самых интересных точках останавливается. Невидимый гид рекомендует выйти и осмотреться. Через полчаса, час или когда тебе заблагорассудиться можешь вернуться и сесть в другой такой же автобус, чтобы продолжить маршрут. Катайся хоть до ночи – билет действителен.
Разумеется в рейтинге мирового интереса к Шотландии на первом месте чудовище озера Лох-Несс. Сказка живет с 33-го года с легкой руки семейной пары, владеющей гостиницей неподалеку. В отличии от рекламного хода с привидениями, этот оказался намного удачнее. Чудовище до сих пор популярнее великого поэта Роберта Бернса, который в свою очередь опережает в рейтинге популярности Шона Коннери, бывшего агента 007, который родился в Шотландии.
Кто спорит, виски не случайно объект внимания № 1 не только для туристов. Россияне найдут здесь братьев по разуму. Шотландцы, как и наши соотечественники, любят хорошо поесть и крепко выпить. В конце недели вечером в Глазго трудно найти трезвого человека. Правда, не стоит при шотландцах нахваливать свои напитки и недооценивать виски. Это святое. Разница лишь в том, что для шотландца виски – поэзия.
Здесь тоже пьют до дна, но не для агрессии или забвения, а для поэтического восторга. На автобусе или автомобиле, пешком или верхом, нон-стоп или с мелкими остановками в многочисленных кафе путешествовать по Шотландии стоит. Хотя бы для того, чтобы ощутить вкус цивилизованной, но традиционной, классической шотландской провинции. Неверно это самое обаятельное из приятных шотландских впечатлений.
According to the observations of interested professionals from the Crimean side this season in the Crimea, was visited by 35% of Russians are more than in the past. It seems that the great percentage of increase independent Russian avtoputeshestvenniki. We are "traveling bag" has been on the Crimean roads, but the journey begins with the country Evpatoria. Today, with Vladimir and Angelina Shakhanov get into the Crimea in another way.
Around the World on its own four wheels - one of the best ways to travel. First, you are free and do not depend on the schedule of transport. Second, all the roads and directions to the most distant shores of the sea are yours. Thirdly, that in general still need to travel? In our case, only far, but available as a tempting target of the Black Sea.
We are approaching the shores of the Crimea, but we would get back not only on land. And the way across the ferry maybe even better land if for no other reason that the time spent in a long, boring and even painful waiting queue customs inspection can be carried out in the breeze crossing. True, too, is not fast. Word version.
Well, our ferry approaches the Kerch. And since water can begin to remember and to check whether the coast at least to our literary experiences. "On the Taman peninsula - remember once Pushkin - as an ancient principality opened my Tmutarakan coast of Crimea. We arrived by sea in the Kerch. Here I see the ruins of the Mithridatic coffin. Here, I see traces of pontikapi - I thought. "
We still recall Pushkin's lines. In the meantime, you will notice that so far only involve the citizens of Kerch, but for sure they do not know where to stop in their town of Pushkin, the same one single night, when he was here.
We landed. That's how you can miss on a solid ground. In this town there is a lot to be proud of and attract tourists other Crimean cities. There are no lush waterfront, musical fountains, palaces and caves. But Kerch and Sevastopol reminds him of the bay. There is a grand view of the city and this old fortress. The people here you done spontaneously, so you can get in absolutely uninhabited space, and then feel the breath of history.
So continue to Pushkin's experience. "We stopped - he writes - the golden hill. The series of stones, a ditch, almost razed to the ground - that's all that remains of the city Pontikopeya. There is no doubt that a lot of precious hidden under the earth, filled up over the centuries. Some Frenchman, sent from St. Petersburg for the finding, but it lacks the money or information, as we commonly is found. In the near hill I saw a pile of rocks, cliffs, carved in a circle, noticed a couple of steps - the case of human hands. The roof is either the base of the tower, I do not know. "
But later, in the XIX century, the same process took place in a barbaric way. Burial mounds excavated all and sundry, and even tried to blow up the rocks. The largest, which was coated on the outside of the royal mound, dismantled for the construction of barracks, and someone on the fence for your garden. As if the traces of those actions, and can now be seen on some streets.
Like many towns on the coast, the ancient name associated with fish Pantikapaion. If you look at Iranian roots Pantikapaion - fish way. That is, had a full view of the production of the Kerch Strait, on the banks of which the city was founded. Pantikopey quickly turned into a major city, ahead of other Greek settlements in the area. Already in the VI century BC Here minted their silver coin.
Around Pontikapeya united Greek cities, and he quickly became the capital of the state and Basporskogo main trade, crafts and cultural center. The city was located on the slopes at the foot of the rocky mountains - Contemporary Mount Mithridates. At the top was, as expected, the Acropolis with temples and public buildings. The city has a good harbor.
Archaeologists have unearthed here rybozasolochnye tanks, wineries, pottery kilns, complexes of household pits to store grain. However, over time, and all Pontikopey Bosporus became a base for pirate raids German, Dacian and other tribes on the coast of the Black and Mediterranean seas. In the end, in the IV century Pontikopey destroyed the Huns. And here is the impression of Pushkin's time, and his own authorship.
"In the Kerch is about 4 thousand people of both sexes. The Greek language can be heard everywhere. I have spoken with many Greek women. They are very friendly and handsome. According to the ancient custom of sitting cross-legged in front of their houses on the rugs. On weekdays in the works, the festival is carried out in conversation. What is the difference, to be under Greek laws of Turkey, Russia Does. " Now, in Greek, that is, some of their descendants.
Another monument is quite recognizable era. Kerch-Eltigen operation may not all entered the history books. But it was one of the largest amphibious operation of the Great Patriotic War. The most distinguished divisions, units and ships have been converted into the Guard, and 129 soldiers were awarded the title "Hero of the Soviet Union."
If you are on the Crimean coast, it is a sin not to go specifically to the Old Crimea. It is here that the earliest preserved in these areas of Khan Uzbek Mosque. This plate can be trusted, if only because that restoration was not long ago. Restoration of the mosque have to wait and wait. Uzbek Khan came to the throne of the Golden Horde in 1312 and ordered to build a mosque and mitrisse. And a Turkish traveler was under the impression from this building in 1512, that do know.
What else exactly? It was here, on the Black Sea coast, settled for centuries people of different faiths and nationalities. Here is the monastery of the Armenian Apostolic Church, Holy Cross, founded in the middle of the XIV century. It was then that there was a mass migration of Armenian in the Crimea. This monastery has traditionally been a major spiritual center of the Crimean Armenians. Before the Revolution, the monastery owned the land, even in mountainous and steppe parts of the peninsula. He had 4000 acres.
Our next meeting with the great and wonderful Sevastopol. Here in this city just makes sense to ride, walk and, of course, to get acquainted with its bays, and ships. Here all stripes. Each meter embankment, ie seaside boulevard, protects their memories. And they will become yours, as you will spend at least an hour here. But more is better to consider a bridge lovers, hear a lot of children's voices, lapping waves.
Recently Boulevard has been updated and landscaped. And, it seems, hosts and guests rated it a new look. Here, as a century ago, is prescribed date, start and self-guided tours exploring the city and just walk, swim, breathe and try to see a lot, remember this simple, yet significant, the sign for the Black Sea landscape.
Almost impossible, but with every moment vividly imagine. That's right here in this bay, concentrated memory of the heroic days and victories of the Russian fleet. Here it is, a recognizable and is a small monument wreck.
In September 1854, fearing that the enemy fleet Anglo-Franco-Turkish army will go on the attack from the sea, the Russian command decided to flood the entrance to the fairway old sailing ships. The fire of coastal batteries, sunken ships made available for the North Bay of the enemy fleet. Here, in this bay, it seems that not only sailors can appreciate the pain of the victim. Anchors from the ships here, on the waterfront.
If you are lucky, you can see in the Bay of modern warships. This contrast is particularly interesting. Still riding on boats and they are entirely armed, ready for his work fighting vehicles. This is not just you ride past all the moored ships, and even tell you some details.
Well, certainly with the Primorsky Boulevard should move to the Sailors, the path does not pass by the Count's marina, which also is surprisingly petite. Or is it a general law? What is known from childhood, as heard many times, when meeting seems not so ambitious. But Nakhimov, great Nakhimov full six-meter rise in the coat with epaulettes, with the George Cross and the telescope since 1898, looking away to the city for which he gave his life. More precisely, this is a new monument, erected on the site is not preserved after the Great Patriotic War.
Here comes the future professionals of worship is not just the memory of Admiral, learn, think, say something to yourself to remember for a lifetime. On the pedestal of fighting episodes in the life of Admiral - Sinodsky fight, talk with the sailors, on the fourth bastion Nakhimov and bronze leaf with the text of one of the orders. "In the case of a meeting with the enemy greater than our forces, I attack it, being quite sure that each of us will do the trick."
Sculptor Tomsky for this monument was awarded a gold medal of the Academy of Arts. Not in vain. See, now alive the energy of love that a patriot for his native land and sea. Here, in Sevastopol until stop to meet in Crimea and to continue the journey to its shores. The next time we are waiting for deep-sea diving and other joys of Cape Tarhankut.
Now a little about different. This country does not celebrate Halloween day, not two, but a whole month. All the streets in October Disneyland Paris will walk with the ladies and gentlemen, pumpkin heads, as well as Skementon Jack and Sally, the heroes of the cartoon "The Nightmare Before Christmas." Especially on Halloween to visit Mickey and Mini Voodoo sorcerer arrives, Dr. Fasil, a villain from the movie "The Princess and the Frog." The inhabitants of the park will teach children and their parents to cook pumpkin soup, play with them in the traditional Halloween piñata. At night, the festival organizers promise a light show, shadow theater and, of course, ghosts.
Recently, while 200 divers descended into the water of the Red Sea. However they are not interested in the exotic fish and coral, and debris. Ministry of Tourism of Egypt, together with the union of divers organized environmental campaign. The purpose - to save the inhabitants from the sea of wastes of civilization. Submarine raids will now become regular. In addition, the system was introduced tough penalties for trash on the beach, illegal fishing and the discharge of sewage. The plans of the administration Sharmal Sheikh in 10 years to become the greenest and cleanest resort city of Egypt.
Why would anyone know how many sides of an ordinary bean? To become a member of the Japanese Matsuri Festival Tsukarimon. Each year the craftsmen bring to the feast of sculpture made of vegetables and fruits. Typically, this cartoon heroes and local legends. The Japanese are working on the statues are not alone and in teams. Young children rely on to stick to the vegetable compositions of small parts and beans. Adults are sure that a professional bean paste is possible only after 3 years of practice. This year's festival was attended by 33 sculptures.
For many Germans go into a monastery - it's like that to go on vacation. 300 monasteries in Germany offer city dwellers to relax their walls from the madding crowd. Priests are always welcome guests from leaving is never rushed. Relax in the monastery as you want. The program includes discussion of the tour of the monastery with the monks, the prayers and help in the daily affairs of the monastery.
City of LED lights. Since tourists are called i-City area of the city of Shah Alam in Malaysia. In the glow of his flock by thousands of tourists each year. It is not surprising. There is, to look at. The streets, trees, statues - all decorated with LED flashlight and played with all the colors of the rainbow, 24 hours a day. Each month, lighting design i-City is changing. By the way, the costs of such large-scale illumination is low. Electricity is needed as much as four and shopping.
Locks, where time has stood still, breathing harsh, mysterious past. Green hills and heather, excellent golf courses and whiskey. Scotland. Not every country is so easy to learn for several characters. And yet, British marketers are a couple of years ago, decided to freshen up the interest of tourists is to Scottish castles and ghosts come from advertising, which are found in the fourteen alleged five-star hotels. That is, in those hotels, which are located in the former knight's castle.
The reaction was reversed. Hotels are empty. Particularly frightened by Japanese tourists. Managers of hotels are still calm guests, assuring them that the spirits behave peacefully and bloody history of castles in the distant past. The failure of advertising stroke, of course, Scotland suffered only because a tour flows in this country are not too bright are the Russians. That's exactly what our ghosts do not scare me.
In the meantime, in spite of direct flights from Moscow to Edinburgh, all that about 30,000 Russians annually sent to the territory of the green hills. Moreover, the organizers of the Scottish pity that Russian tourists are attracted not only golf courses, many temples and tours. 45 million other visitors each year go to the gallery Kelvingrouz in Glasgow, Edinburgh Castle, the center of marine birds in the village Nordbereg and the National Museum of Scotland.
Bus to the most interesting points is stopped. The Invisible Guide recommends to go out and look around. After half an hour, an hour or when you will come back and you can sit in another of the same bus to continue the route. Skate at least until the night - the ticket is valid.
Of course in the ranking of world interest in Scotland in the first place the monster of Loch Ness. Fairytale lives with his 33rd year with the light hand of a couple that owns a hotel nearby. In contrast to the advertising course with ghosts, this was much better. The monster is still more popular than the great poet Robert Burns, who in turn is ahead in the popularity rating of Sean Connery, the former agent 007, who was born in Scotland.
Who argues, whiskey is not accidental object of attention of a number, not only for tourists. The Russians will find brothers in mind. The Scots, like our countrymen, like good food and strong drink. At the end of the week at night in Glasgow is hard to find a sober person. However, do not crack up when the Scots and underestimate their drinks whiskey. It is sacred. The only difference is that Scottish whiskey - poetry.
Here, too, drank to the dregs, but not for aggression or neglect, and for the poetic rapture. By bus or car, on foot or on horseback, a non-stop or with fine stops in the many cafes in Scotland to travel costs. At least to the civilized taste, but the traditional, classic Scottish province. Wrong is the most charming of the nice Scottish experience.
Around the World on its own four wheels - one of the best ways to travel. First, you are free and do not depend on the schedule of transport. Second, all the roads and directions to the most distant shores of the sea are yours. Thirdly, that in general still need to travel? In our case, only far, but available as a tempting target of the Black Sea.
We are approaching the shores of the Crimea, but we would get back not only on land. And the way across the ferry maybe even better land if for no other reason that the time spent in a long, boring and even painful waiting queue customs inspection can be carried out in the breeze crossing. True, too, is not fast. Word version.
Well, our ferry approaches the Kerch. And since water can begin to remember and to check whether the coast at least to our literary experiences. "On the Taman peninsula - remember once Pushkin - as an ancient principality opened my Tmutarakan coast of Crimea. We arrived by sea in the Kerch. Here I see the ruins of the Mithridatic coffin. Here, I see traces of pontikapi - I thought. "
We still recall Pushkin's lines. In the meantime, you will notice that so far only involve the citizens of Kerch, but for sure they do not know where to stop in their town of Pushkin, the same one single night, when he was here.
We landed. That's how you can miss on a solid ground. In this town there is a lot to be proud of and attract tourists other Crimean cities. There are no lush waterfront, musical fountains, palaces and caves. But Kerch and Sevastopol reminds him of the bay. There is a grand view of the city and this old fortress. The people here you done spontaneously, so you can get in absolutely uninhabited space, and then feel the breath of history.
So continue to Pushkin's experience. "We stopped - he writes - the golden hill. The series of stones, a ditch, almost razed to the ground - that's all that remains of the city Pontikopeya. There is no doubt that a lot of precious hidden under the earth, filled up over the centuries. Some Frenchman, sent from St. Petersburg for the finding, but it lacks the money or information, as we commonly is found. In the near hill I saw a pile of rocks, cliffs, carved in a circle, noticed a couple of steps - the case of human hands. The roof is either the base of the tower, I do not know. "
But later, in the XIX century, the same process took place in a barbaric way. Burial mounds excavated all and sundry, and even tried to blow up the rocks. The largest, which was coated on the outside of the royal mound, dismantled for the construction of barracks, and someone on the fence for your garden. As if the traces of those actions, and can now be seen on some streets.
Like many towns on the coast, the ancient name associated with fish Pantikapaion. If you look at Iranian roots Pantikapaion - fish way. That is, had a full view of the production of the Kerch Strait, on the banks of which the city was founded. Pantikopey quickly turned into a major city, ahead of other Greek settlements in the area. Already in the VI century BC Here minted their silver coin.
Around Pontikapeya united Greek cities, and he quickly became the capital of the state and Basporskogo main trade, crafts and cultural center. The city was located on the slopes at the foot of the rocky mountains - Contemporary Mount Mithridates. At the top was, as expected, the Acropolis with temples and public buildings. The city has a good harbor.
Archaeologists have unearthed here rybozasolochnye tanks, wineries, pottery kilns, complexes of household pits to store grain. However, over time, and all Pontikopey Bosporus became a base for pirate raids German, Dacian and other tribes on the coast of the Black and Mediterranean seas. In the end, in the IV century Pontikopey destroyed the Huns. And here is the impression of Pushkin's time, and his own authorship.
"In the Kerch is about 4 thousand people of both sexes. The Greek language can be heard everywhere. I have spoken with many Greek women. They are very friendly and handsome. According to the ancient custom of sitting cross-legged in front of their houses on the rugs. On weekdays in the works, the festival is carried out in conversation. What is the difference, to be under Greek laws of Turkey, Russia Does. " Now, in Greek, that is, some of their descendants.
Another monument is quite recognizable era. Kerch-Eltigen operation may not all entered the history books. But it was one of the largest amphibious operation of the Great Patriotic War. The most distinguished divisions, units and ships have been converted into the Guard, and 129 soldiers were awarded the title "Hero of the Soviet Union."
If you are on the Crimean coast, it is a sin not to go specifically to the Old Crimea. It is here that the earliest preserved in these areas of Khan Uzbek Mosque. This plate can be trusted, if only because that restoration was not long ago. Restoration of the mosque have to wait and wait. Uzbek Khan came to the throne of the Golden Horde in 1312 and ordered to build a mosque and mitrisse. And a Turkish traveler was under the impression from this building in 1512, that do know.
What else exactly? It was here, on the Black Sea coast, settled for centuries people of different faiths and nationalities. Here is the monastery of the Armenian Apostolic Church, Holy Cross, founded in the middle of the XIV century. It was then that there was a mass migration of Armenian in the Crimea. This monastery has traditionally been a major spiritual center of the Crimean Armenians. Before the Revolution, the monastery owned the land, even in mountainous and steppe parts of the peninsula. He had 4000 acres.
Our next meeting with the great and wonderful Sevastopol. Here in this city just makes sense to ride, walk and, of course, to get acquainted with its bays, and ships. Here all stripes. Each meter embankment, ie seaside boulevard, protects their memories. And they will become yours, as you will spend at least an hour here. But more is better to consider a bridge lovers, hear a lot of children's voices, lapping waves.
Recently Boulevard has been updated and landscaped. And, it seems, hosts and guests rated it a new look. Here, as a century ago, is prescribed date, start and self-guided tours exploring the city and just walk, swim, breathe and try to see a lot, remember this simple, yet significant, the sign for the Black Sea landscape.
Almost impossible, but with every moment vividly imagine. That's right here in this bay, concentrated memory of the heroic days and victories of the Russian fleet. Here it is, a recognizable and is a small monument wreck.
In September 1854, fearing that the enemy fleet Anglo-Franco-Turkish army will go on the attack from the sea, the Russian command decided to flood the entrance to the fairway old sailing ships. The fire of coastal batteries, sunken ships made available for the North Bay of the enemy fleet. Here, in this bay, it seems that not only sailors can appreciate the pain of the victim. Anchors from the ships here, on the waterfront.
If you are lucky, you can see in the Bay of modern warships. This contrast is particularly interesting. Still riding on boats and they are entirely armed, ready for his work fighting vehicles. This is not just you ride past all the moored ships, and even tell you some details.
Well, certainly with the Primorsky Boulevard should move to the Sailors, the path does not pass by the Count's marina, which also is surprisingly petite. Or is it a general law? What is known from childhood, as heard many times, when meeting seems not so ambitious. But Nakhimov, great Nakhimov full six-meter rise in the coat with epaulettes, with the George Cross and the telescope since 1898, looking away to the city for which he gave his life. More precisely, this is a new monument, erected on the site is not preserved after the Great Patriotic War.
Here comes the future professionals of worship is not just the memory of Admiral, learn, think, say something to yourself to remember for a lifetime. On the pedestal of fighting episodes in the life of Admiral - Sinodsky fight, talk with the sailors, on the fourth bastion Nakhimov and bronze leaf with the text of one of the orders. "In the case of a meeting with the enemy greater than our forces, I attack it, being quite sure that each of us will do the trick."
Sculptor Tomsky for this monument was awarded a gold medal of the Academy of Arts. Not in vain. See, now alive the energy of love that a patriot for his native land and sea. Here, in Sevastopol until stop to meet in Crimea and to continue the journey to its shores. The next time we are waiting for deep-sea diving and other joys of Cape Tarhankut.
Now a little about different. This country does not celebrate Halloween day, not two, but a whole month. All the streets in October Disneyland Paris will walk with the ladies and gentlemen, pumpkin heads, as well as Skementon Jack and Sally, the heroes of the cartoon "The Nightmare Before Christmas." Especially on Halloween to visit Mickey and Mini Voodoo sorcerer arrives, Dr. Fasil, a villain from the movie "The Princess and the Frog." The inhabitants of the park will teach children and their parents to cook pumpkin soup, play with them in the traditional Halloween piñata. At night, the festival organizers promise a light show, shadow theater and, of course, ghosts.
Recently, while 200 divers descended into the water of the Red Sea. However they are not interested in the exotic fish and coral, and debris. Ministry of Tourism of Egypt, together with the union of divers organized environmental campaign. The purpose - to save the inhabitants from the sea of wastes of civilization. Submarine raids will now become regular. In addition, the system was introduced tough penalties for trash on the beach, illegal fishing and the discharge of sewage. The plans of the administration Sharmal Sheikh in 10 years to become the greenest and cleanest resort city of Egypt.
Why would anyone know how many sides of an ordinary bean? To become a member of the Japanese Matsuri Festival Tsukarimon. Each year the craftsmen bring to the feast of sculpture made of vegetables and fruits. Typically, this cartoon heroes and local legends. The Japanese are working on the statues are not alone and in teams. Young children rely on to stick to the vegetable compositions of small parts and beans. Adults are sure that a professional bean paste is possible only after 3 years of practice. This year's festival was attended by 33 sculptures.
For many Germans go into a monastery - it's like that to go on vacation. 300 monasteries in Germany offer city dwellers to relax their walls from the madding crowd. Priests are always welcome guests from leaving is never rushed. Relax in the monastery as you want. The program includes discussion of the tour of the monastery with the monks, the prayers and help in the daily affairs of the monastery.
City of LED lights. Since tourists are called i-City area of the city of Shah Alam in Malaysia. In the glow of his flock by thousands of tourists each year. It is not surprising. There is, to look at. The streets, trees, statues - all decorated with LED flashlight and played with all the colors of the rainbow, 24 hours a day. Each month, lighting design i-City is changing. By the way, the costs of such large-scale illumination is low. Electricity is needed as much as four and shopping.
Locks, where time has stood still, breathing harsh, mysterious past. Green hills and heather, excellent golf courses and whiskey. Scotland. Not every country is so easy to learn for several characters. And yet, British marketers are a couple of years ago, decided to freshen up the interest of tourists is to Scottish castles and ghosts come from advertising, which are found in the fourteen alleged five-star hotels. That is, in those hotels, which are located in the former knight's castle.
The reaction was reversed. Hotels are empty. Particularly frightened by Japanese tourists. Managers of hotels are still calm guests, assuring them that the spirits behave peacefully and bloody history of castles in the distant past. The failure of advertising stroke, of course, Scotland suffered only because a tour flows in this country are not too bright are the Russians. That's exactly what our ghosts do not scare me.
In the meantime, in spite of direct flights from Moscow to Edinburgh, all that about 30,000 Russians annually sent to the territory of the green hills. Moreover, the organizers of the Scottish pity that Russian tourists are attracted not only golf courses, many temples and tours. 45 million other visitors each year go to the gallery Kelvingrouz in Glasgow, Edinburgh Castle, the center of marine birds in the village Nordbereg and the National Museum of Scotland.
Bus to the most interesting points is stopped. The Invisible Guide recommends to go out and look around. After half an hour, an hour or when you will come back and you can sit in another of the same bus to continue the route. Skate at least until the night - the ticket is valid.
Of course in the ranking of world interest in Scotland in the first place the monster of Loch Ness. Fairytale lives with his 33rd year with the light hand of a couple that owns a hotel nearby. In contrast to the advertising course with ghosts, this was much better. The monster is still more popular than the great poet Robert Burns, who in turn is ahead in the popularity rating of Sean Connery, the former agent 007, who was born in Scotland.
Who argues, whiskey is not accidental object of attention of a number, not only for tourists. The Russians will find brothers in mind. The Scots, like our countrymen, like good food and strong drink. At the end of the week at night in Glasgow is hard to find a sober person. However, do not crack up when the Scots and underestimate their drinks whiskey. It is sacred. The only difference is that Scottish whiskey - poetry.
Here, too, drank to the dregs, but not for aggression or neglect, and for the poetic rapture. By bus or car, on foot or on horseback, a non-stop or with fine stops in the many cafes in Scotland to travel costs. At least to the civilized taste, but the traditional, classic Scottish province. Wrong is the most charming of the nice Scottish experience.
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